Table at Third & Fairfax is a weekly dining column in 2023 where Food and Drink editor Patricia Kelly Yeo will eat her way through the Original Farmers Market. Each column will drop on Thursday for a week-by-week recap of her journey through the classic L.A. tourist attraction. Last week, Kelly tried Sushi A Go Go and Local Ice.
Strangely enough, for a job driven by the pleasure principle, full-time restaurant writing demands you become inured to the first-order joys of eating out. A noteworthy, memorable event for most people becomes a near-everyday occurrence; the hedonic treadmill chugs on. The novelty, in my case, wore off quickly enough to kill off any implicit goodwill I once had towards burgers, pizza and brunch—all things people seem to love, and I previously just liked, before traveling hundreds of miles across L.A. to sample dozens of iterations and become semi-fluent in the nuances of each item or meal. Objectivity in media might be a sham, but I’ll be damned before I fail to lay in some serious gustatory groundwork.
On the other hand, my love for fried chicken knows few bounds. As long as it remains, in the wise words of Cookie Monster, a “sometime food” in my diet, my enthusiasm for the seemingly infinite variations of deep-fried chicken isn’t likely to wane. An upcoming update to our guide to fried chicken sandwiches will put my love to the test. In preparation for a snail-paced quest to check out L.A.’s latest, greatest chicken sandos, I spend this week’s Original Farmers Market visit checking out Neal Fraser’s Fritzi Coop (est. 2016), which currently enjoys the #8 spot on a guide last edited a few months before I started working at Time Out.
Based on my previous,