Nova Scotia is a landscape of a thousand views—from the dramatic tides in the Bay of Fundy to the rolling vineyards of Annapolis Valley—you’ll see it all. Here, over one million shore birds migrate through every summer along with some of the rarest whales in the world. While nature tends to steal the show don’t let that distract you from Nova Scotia’s vibrant locally infused culinary scene, fueled in large part by this region’s naturally abundant provender. Farmer’s markets feature bins piled high with brussel sprouts, broccoli, apples and squash while distilleries and breweries deliver on the local libations. And, while fresh and local are just part of the experience, it is also worth noting that most every restaurant, winery and coffee shop is a boutique family-owned and operated affair.
During a recent trip with my son, who is a chef, we ate our way across the landscape finding surprise and delight at the range of offerings (its not all lobster folks.) A brown butter tartar sauce might have been the highlight of the trip—at least for my son, who immediately envisioned it in other culinary applications. I just thought it tasted amazing. There were other competing experiences such as the gently battered calamari with lime crema and red pepper aioli at the Luckett Vineyards Bistro or the spaghetti alla chitarra & eggplant sugo at Bar Kismet in Halifax. Yet, I am getting ahead of things. Let’s start with the first day and our highlights of the best places to eat, and eat some more, hike and sleep.
Port Williams & Wolfville:
Start at Planter’s Ridge Winery, which is both a winery and a guest house that features lovely accommodations in an 1800’s-era home which has been completely remodeled. Guestrooms have sleek